Illusions

Our very first day in Rome, we did the Caesar shuffle. We had rebooked a tour, and so took ourselves off to the tour headquarters where we had to wait for the rest of the group. We grabbed our first Gelato, and wandered for a while, then met our tour guide. The only word I have for him is fabulous in every sense of the meaning. He took us to the Forum, and we dutifully wandered around, trying to imagine it all in its glory days. I was just enjoying being there. I have always loved the heat. Coming from Australia, this is an advantage, when our summers can hit well into the 40's. I don't think there was a day in Rome that was below 38, and I loved it. Not only was the weather perfect, but I was wandering around the ancient ruins of Rome, strolling down roads that still had the original stones complete with chariot ruts in them. It was the first of many very happy days. After our visit to the Colosseum, which was as impressive as I imagined, and again quite a bit bigger, we joined another tour, which took us to the Trevi Fountain in the evening, just before sunset. The atmosphere at the Trevi in complex. At the top you have your typical tourist atmosphere, with people hawking trashy junk at tourists, and equally trashy tourists posing and taking photos. But underneath that, you could pick up another atmosphere and it was magic. This was a place where wishes were made and dream fulfilled. Maybe that sounds terribly naive and romantic of me, but thats how the place made me feel. We ended our second night at a lookout over Rome, with the lights twinkling in the valley. It is one of the best views I've ever seen. 


The next morning it was back to the tour headquarters, and packed into a bus on our way to Naples. This was a place that I had always wanted to see. It has a very tough reputation, home of the Italian Mafia. But I didn't see as much of it as I'd have liked. We were given a quick tour around the water front, then packed back onto the bus off to see Pompeii. As a bit of a history enthusiast, I was excited to see the famous town. But, as I was quickly learning, travel never gives you what you expect. I did not like Pompeii. In the beginning I did. It was fascinating learning about the people who had lived here, seeing the chariot ruts in the road, seeing the houses and shops and gardens. And then the guide showed us the preserved casts made from the ash. These were terrible. They may have only plaster impressions of them, but they were very accurate impressions. You could see the fear and agony of their deaths in the way they were lying, and for the rest of our time there, I couldn't help but imagining how horrible it must have been, killed by something you didn't understand and couldn't escape. 


The next day, we took yet another tour. I am not generally a fan of organised tours, but they are a good way getting information, and the case of the Vatican, they are a great way to skip the enormous line, and save 5 hours of waiting. Unfortunately, taking the tour meant staying with the tour, so we didn't get to see some of the incredible art in the rest of the museum. We were taken to the Sistine Chapel by the most direct route, through the map rooms. While these maps may have been interesting near the beginning of the trip, I have to admit it was getting harder to maintain interest in something I barely cared about on a good day. But then we got to the Chapel. 


As with everything in Europe, it was much bigger that I expected. The use of the word chapel was perhaps misleading, as in my mind Chapels are small. This room was not small. But I have to admit I was not immediately impressed. I was in awe of the place because it was so iconic. I could finally be one of those people who lifted their hands when asked if they'd been to the Sistine Chapel. But after all the build up, both about the Chapel and from what I had heard about Michelangelo, I was a little disappointed.....that is until I realised the ceiling was flat. What initially looked like flat panels painted between cornices and mouldings, was in fact just flat roof. These paintings were so good, the illusion so masterfully rendered, that it looked 3D. I think my mother had the same initial reaction as me. And then I showed her what she was missing. We were gobsmacked, completely in awe. I never knew it was possible to paint in 3D. But here it was. The greatest optical illusion in history. 

Homecoming

When I arrived in Rome, it again wasn't what I expected. But it was unexpected in a different way to Paris. Something wonderful happened on my first evening in Rome. Walking to dinner just around the corner from our hotel, dodging scooters, and taking in everything around me, I took a deep breathe and thought 'I'm home'. Possibly some of you know what I mean when I say this. Ever since the plane landed, I'd had this feeling, similar to the one I got when I walked off the plane in Australia. I don't think I can explain it if you've never felt it, but it was an instant connection with a place, like meeting an old friend. I could have happily stayed in Rome forever. What is especially interesting about this feeling, is that when we headed north, to Venice and Florence,  that feeling of being at home vanished. Sure the places were still beautiful, the weather was still warm. But I didn't feel like I belonged. Walking out of the Termini, on our way back, I took one look around me at the chaotic traffic, the people and the buildings, and thought again, 'I'm home'. In Naples, I had the same feeling. Maybe its the chaos of it all, maybe its the vibrance of life against the ancient, crumbling background.But something about it all makes me feel like I belong. And if I never go anywhere again in my life I would want to go back to Rome.